The Face of Sumba: Entry No. 6

Monday – August 11

                Last 1^st of August, during the feast of S. Alphonsus, I had the chance to visit the eastern part of Sumba in Kota Waingapu. Waingapu is actually larger and more prosperous than its neighbours in the island such as Weetebula (Sumba Barat Daya) where in the Cathedral was located and, and also Waikabubak (Sumba Barat) and Waibakul (Anakalang – Sumba Tengah), despite the situation in Waingapu. Indeed, it was hot and dry. Its mountain and hills are only filled with brown grasses and stones. Water is scarce and especially in places that are far from the town centre. However, Waingapu seemed to attract more investors coming from the neighbouring islands. Hence, its prosperity is seen in its road structures, the number of stores and buildings in the city and as well as the number of the residents.

                Anyway, I had another chance to go back to Waingapu and was able to spend few days in the periphery together with the local people. It was through the invitation of Pater Simon, CSsR the director of PUSPAS (The Pastoral Centre of the Diocese of Weetebula) that I was able to explore the eastern part of Sumba in a short period of time.

                Thus, in the Parish of Kambajawa, Waingapu, Sumba Timur we headed and visited the community of Stasi Wunga. It was an hour and 30 minutes’ drive from the parish. Along the road the beautiful beach of Sumba Timur can be seen yet further and further we reached the fringe of Waingapu and one would be able to see its bare mountains and hills. Everything was dry. Tress were very few and mostly there were no leaves. The vast area were filled with brown grasses and limestone. There were cows, buffalos and horses trying to eat what is left on the field. This explains the skinny animals along the road.

Houses in the middle of the dry field fascinated me and kept me wondering how could these people live in such a place where water is as precious as gold. Nevertheless, when the late afternoon came and it was the time when the Sun has to set, oh dear, the whole place was so beautiful. And then the cold wind began to cover the whole place that gave a cool breeze to a humid and dry place.

                Since, water was a scarcity in Wunga, we brought a supply of drinking water with us. And since there was no electricity, a generator set that we brought provided us power for our activities during the night. Films and songs were shown for the children and all the people as well. Indeed, people came for the night activities and not just the Catholics but also the Protestants. Others, also just came to grab the opportunity to be able to recharge their cellular phones. Moreover, the community was actually small and the number of Catholics also was just little. Thus, there was not much pastoral work that we did during the weekend in Wunga. Usually there would be more activities for the children, the youth and older ones done separately and simultaneously. But this time we had only the film showing and catechism afterwards due to the situation of the community.

                On Saturday morning, we visited the village or called as Kampung. In this village the elder ones were the remaining Marapu believers since all their children and grandchildren were already converted to Catholicism. And so from our location we took the cars to go to the site. However, as we would ascend on the hills, a road construction was undergoing that blocked the entire road going up. We didn’t have the choice but walk and to feel the excruciating pain of the sun. Nonetheless, the cold breeze gave relief to us.

Since the construction was going on and the place was extremely dry then we have to pass through the thick dust. This gave me the contrasting view of the place, a very white land because it’s lime stone and a very brown field for lack of water. Although, as we began to climb up the hills there was a relief then since the tress on that side are still green. Then I realized that the construction is actually all the way up to the village but on the hill side, steps are constructed. Then, as we entered the village I noticed the piled lime stones the surrounded the entire village. And we entered into a seemingly open part where two trees on each side stood as if to welcome the visitors. Later I realized that this structure of the old villages explains that this people are a warring tribe. As to what I have written previously I have described the people in this sense as they usually carry with them the parang. Now, the first villages in the early centuries were actually situated on a hill and surrounded by piled lime stones as a protection against the incoming enemies.

                During the conversation with the local people, I heard that this village was once a big village and was ruled by a raja or a king. This title, according to anthropology experts, was first introduced to the Sumbanese people when they were under the influence of the Madjapahit Empire in the island of Jawa. Hence, it was by giving titles to the nobles in Sumba and recognizing their authority that the empire got their influence and control over the island particularly in East Sumba where trade and industry was going on at that time. Consequently, we were received in therumah besar or the big house where the descendants of the raja resides. Indeed, they were the descendants since the social status is hereditary. In front of this house were a number of kuburan/ tomb stones and the biggest belonged to the raja.

As I went around the village I noticed that there were actually few houses left and two of the houses were not anymore used since they were destroyed by age. Then I noticed the many kuburan all around the village and I realized that this was something different from the western part of Sumba.

In the west, the kuburans are always situated in one place and usually take the centre of the village hence surrounded by the houses. Nonetheless, in this village there were kuburan that were built at the back of the rumah besar. So, I asked for an explanation about this. And so a clarification came that this kind of structure was because of the social status of the dead ones. Those who were buried in front were the nobles thus there was the kuburan of the raja and his immediate family. The dead ones who were buried at the back or at the side of the rumah besar were those of lower status. The people of the lower status were not worthy to take the place of the front which was also a bit elevated than the rest. This explains the division and the social stratification present in the Sumbanese culture. Experts also would say that this particular social standard present in the Sumbanese culture was primarily an influence of a foreign element. Most probably, it was from a Hindu belief brought by the Madjapahit Empire.

As I let my eyes roamed around the place and the house, I saw a peculiar characteristic of the house. I saw strings from bamboo strips or perhaps from rattan (as what we call in the Philippines) that served as the material to tie the wood and give support to the whole structure of the house. There was no single nail as it was affirmed by the people used in this house as well as in the other houses in this village. As I continued to observe the place, then, I noticed that there were more abundance in Sumba Barat and Sumba Tengah compared to this dry and bare Sumba Timur. Water is indeed scarce and therefore so also is food. Then, I noticed the difference of the structure of the houses in Timur compared to Barat and Tengah. Even though they have the same indigenous belief but still there are some differences.

                As to the structure of the house. Here in Timur the first thing I noticed was the absence of the tandok on top of the roof. Secondly, the receiving area where visitors can stay was quite small. Just below the door was a place for it while in Barat and Tengah it goes from the whole front up to the whole right side of the house. Indeed, Barat and Tengah are more generous in this area.

                Time came that we have to bid our goodbyes since we didn’t want to stay there for lunch knowing that they were also in need. Going out from the village some of us headed towards the gate were we entered but we were told that we have to take the exit area and not the entrance. We did take the back of the village where they said as the rightful place of going out. Then, few meters away was the constructed steps going to the village. Later I was I informed that it was through the government’s effort that this road is being constructed and the steps are built since there is a potential that this village will become a tourist spot and cultural centre as well.

                In that afternoon, again I was fascinated by the beauty of the sunset with the children playing on their dry field. This prompted me to take my humble camera and take a shot of this scenery.